The Stevenson Trail

Region

Apr 13

Written By Team

In the autumn of 1878, a young Scottish writer named Robert Louis Stevenson set out on a journey through the rugged landscapes of southern France. With a donkey named Modestine and a heavy heart, he left behind the comfort of Edinburgh and stepped into the Cévennes wilderness, unknowingly creating what we might call today the first modern road trip—a mix of solitude, reflection, encounters, and freedom.

But this was no mere hike. It was an act of love, of emotional healing, and creative reinvention. The Stevenson Trail (officially GR70) retraces his footsteps through 220 kilometers of high plateaus, volcanic hills, deep forests, and remote villages—from Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille to Saint-Jean-du-Gard. This is a journey through space, but also through a man’s transformation.

🥾 The Backstory: A Burnout Before It Had a Name

Robert Louis Stevenson wasn’t yet a famous author. He was a sickly, struggling writer in love with a married American woman, Fanny Osbourne, and torn between passion, guilt, and failure. On top of that, his health was fragile, his finances low, and his social life torn by scandal.

Today, we’d likely call it burnout.

In search of clarity, Stevenson did what few dared to do: he walked away. Literally. Into the wild, alone, with no guide, no support crew—just Modestine, a makeshift sleeping bag (which he essentially invented, along with the idea of camping for leisure), and a head full of questions.

He chronicled the journey in Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes (1879), blending humor, poetic descriptions, and musings on life, faith, and loneliness. It was one of the first travelogues that wasn’t about war or commerce, but about simply being alive in nature, and letting it heal you.

❤️ A Love Story With a Healing Arc

This was a journey through heartbreak, but also toward recovery. The trail helped Stevenson reconnect with himself, with silence, with trees and time—and ultimately brought him back to Fanny. A year later, he crossed the Atlantic, reunited with her in California, and married her.

That’s when his writing career bloomed. It’s as if the trail opened the door for him to live the life he was meant to live—bold, passionate, and wildly creative. A reminder that sometimes, walking away is the beginning, not the end.

🌿 Nature, Travel, and the Art of Slowing Down

Stevenson’s story is more relevant than ever. In a world drowning in noise and speed, this 12-day trail shows us how to slow down, observe, listen, and feel again. You don’t need Wi-Fi in the woods—you need a bit of wind, sun, and time to forget who you thought you had to be.

The Stevenson Trail isn’t just a path through France. It’s a path back to yourself.

📍 The Villages and Stops on the Stevenson Trail

🏘️ Village / Stop 🧭 Snapshot Description Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille Start of the trail. A charming volcanic village where Stevenson prepped for his journey. Visit the small museum and grab a photo with the Stevenson statue. Goudet Overlooking the Loire, with castle ruins and volcanic cliffs. First scenic drama of the trail. Le Bouchet-Saint-Nicolas A volcanic plateau with wide open skies. Quiet, remote, and mystical. A Stevenson monument honors his overnight stay. Langogne A market town on the Langouyrou river, offering a moment of urban contrast. Great spot to restock or stay overnight. Cheylard-l'Évêque Tiny and steeped in legend. You feel the wild Cévennes here. There’s a chapel and real solitude. Luc Known for its ruined château, overlooking the highlands. A medieval vibe and stunning light at sunset. La Bastide-Puylaurent A crossroads village with an old monastery nearby. You’ll also cross the famous Régordane Way. Chasseradès Stevenson stayed here, though he disliked the inn! Surrounded by pine forests and crisp air. Le Bleymard A historic spa village. Ideal for a longer pause. Stevenson climbed nearby Mont Lozère from here. Mont Lozère Crossing Highest point of the trail at over 1,600m. Alpine meadows, granite chaos, and unforgettable views. You’ll likely feel alone in the world here. Pont-de-Monvert A stone bridge, a historic Protestant rebellion site, and a wild river make this stop truly cinematic. Saint-Germain-de-Calberte Mediterranean influences begin to appear—chestnut groves, cicadas, and gentler air. Saint-Étienne-Vallée-Française Olive trees and stone houses with lauze roofs. A mix of Cévenol charm and spiritual stillness. Saint-Jean-du-Gard The final stop. Lively, Provençal, and rich with Camisard history. Stevenson found the people here curious, almost theatrical. End with a well-earned local meal.

🌍 Why Walk It Today?

To disconnect and rediscover your rhythm.
To reconnect with wild nature, and remember what it’s like to live without constant pressure.
To walk through a living memoir, a trail where every stone and path breathes a story of loss, longing, and rebirth.
To heal from your own burnout—or simply breathe better.

And maybe… to remind yourself that wandering isn’t about getting lost, but about finding something that matters.